Plumbing Problems

Your house has several separate plumbing systems. Water-supply pipes bring pressurized water from the water utility or a well to your house, where it is piped to sinks, toilets, washers, bathtubs, and related fixtures. Larger pipes drain waste and vent sewer gases. And many homes have piped-in natural gas for gas-burning appliances such as dryers and furnaces.

In an emergency, you should know how to turn water off quickly before it ruins floors and walls. The main shutoff valve is located either outside where the main water supply enters, or just inside—particularly in cold climates. Turn the valve clockwise to shut it off. Call your utility company if the problem involves a valve between the street and the house.

Other Common Plumbing Problems

• Drains - Drains often become clogged with food, hair, or grease. Clogged drains may let water out very slowly or in severe cases not at all. Turn off running water immediately if you notice it is not going down the drain.

  Drains always seem to back up at the least convenient times, so be prepared.

  Basic tools to have on hand include the plumber's helper or plunger, and chemical drain cleaners.

  • Using a Plunger - If you've tried a plunger unsuccessfully, be sure that the suction cup is big enough to cover the drain opening completely, but not so large that a huge amount of effort is needed to unclog the drain.
    
  • Using Chemicals - Use chemical drain cleaners sparingly. They can damage your pipes and can be hard on the environment. Use only in a well-ventilated room and don't let chemicals come in contact with your skin, even when diluted with water. Never use the plunger and chemicals in combination: Caustic water could splash your skin. Wear rubber gloves and eye protection; read all the labels and follow directions carefully. Some products are alkalis that cut grease; others are acids that dissolve clogs. Scalding water can also clear drains of grease. If efforts with plungers or chemical solutions fail, call a professional immediately.

   

• Faucets - A leaking or dripping faucet usually indicates that a part is worn and should be replaced. 

  The washers or seals of compression faucets are under pressure as water flows through them, so they typically wear out. When they do, the result is usually relentless dripping that can corrode fixtures, stain sink bowls, and waste a lot of water if they are not fixed.

  Disc, cartridge, and ball faucets are all washerless, so they are not as prone to dripping as compression faucets. They too have moving parts sealed by O-ring that wear out, though, evidenced by leaking from the base of the faucet itself.

  Disc faucets leak when the inlet and outlet seals wear or when sediment builds up in the faucet inlets. Cartridge faucets leak when the O-ring cushioning the cartridge stem wears or breaks. A dripping cartridge faucet might need its cartridge replaced. Be sure the replacement cartridge matches the original. Ball faucets drip when the inlet seals wear and leak when the O-rings wear or break.

  
  

• Supply Pipes - The most common and obvious problem with water supply pipes is a leak. But pipes may have a number of other less obvious problems, too.

   

  • Low Water Pressure - If you can't wash your dishes while the sprinkler's on because the water pressure is too weak, you'll need to investigate your home's water supply system.

    Ask you water utility company (or your neighbors) if water pressure is low in your neighborhood. If it is, there isn't much you can do about it beyond requesting that your water utility upgrade their service to your home.

    Commonly, however, low water pressure throughout the house is caused by older galvanized-steel pipes that have become clogged with mineral deposits from decades of use. To solve this problem, contact a plumbing contractor who specializes in re-piping houses using copper pipes.

  • Noisy Pipes - If your home's pipes are noisy, be sure they're fastened securely with pipe straps or supports. Loose pipes can rattle, and hot water pipes may squeak as they expand. A very common pipe noise, called water hammer, is the banging sound that can occur when water rushes through pipes and hits a quick-closing valve, such as the type inside a toilet or washing machine. Normally, a home's plumbing system is designed with short lengths of pipe that fill up with air to cushion the water as it comes to a quick stop, but the air can eventually leak out. 

   

• Toilets - A broken toilet is incredibly inconvenient. A problem toilet may overflow, run incessantly, or have a weak flush or leak.

  And watching a toilet bowl fill past its usual level and overflow onto the floor can be horrifying. An overflow is caused by blockages in the drain, which usually can be cleared with a plunger or toilet auger. If these efforts fail, a professional should be contacted.

  Some toilets run incessantly. This can be caused by a float arm that doesn't rise high enough, a float ball that has become waterlogged, a tank stopper that doesn't sit in the valve properly, or an inlet valve that doesn't shut off.

  Some toilets make a noisy high-pitched whine or whistle as they fill. This can be caused by a defective inlet-valve assembly or a shutoff valve that has been partly closed.

  An inadequate flush can be caused by a broken link between the handle and trip lever, or a tank stopper that closes before the tank empties.

  In the summer months, sweating tanks can encourage mildew and can rot subflooring. Tank water that's cooler than the ambient air causes moisture to condense and the tank to sweat. 
  

• Water Heaters - Common water heater problems include no hot water, water that isn't hot enough or is too hot, or a water heater that rumbles or leaks. 

  If you have no hot water or water that isn't hot enough, check the temperature control. If it's set correctly, the heater's thermostat may be defective. Replacing a defective thermostat is best left to a professional plumber. If you have a gas heater, it's possible that the pilot light has gone out. If so, follow the instructions on the tank to relight it. It's also possible that the gas inlet valve has been closed partially or all the way; if so, turn the valve handle parallel to the line and relight the pilot light.

  If the pilot light won't light, it may need cleaning or a new thermocouple. Hire a professional to handle these jobs. The same holds true if you have an electric water heater with defective electric heating elements.

  If the water is too hot, check the temperature control. If turning it down doesn't help, it may be defective and should be replaced by a professional. It may also be that the flue on a gas heater may be blocked; clear any obstructions. A defective heating element may also overheat water; if you suspect this, call a professional to replace it.

  Rumbling and whistling noises can be caused by sediment building up in the tank; draining the tank often helps. Overheated water may also cause rumbling, whistling, or sizzling noises; first try lowering the temperature setting, then call a professional to check out the heating element.

  A water leak may be cured simply by tightening the drain valve or by closing an open temperature-pressure relief valve. But be aware that water heaters have limited life spans; if the leak is serious, it's possible that your tank has become corroded. If that's the case, the water heater must be replaced.
  

   

  
  
  
  

Schneider Heating, Inc. 
252 Pillow Street
Butler PA 16001
724-283-8525

© Schneider Heating Inc. 2002